April 27, 2010 snowstorm

6 inches and counting. Enough said. Yesterday was 70 degrees. More than enough said...

Nap Time

Dumpling Diehard

I haven't posted in a bit, as I find it difficult to actually sit down and write while busy farming...fixing fence, lambing, calving, making cheese, building the new barn.....so sadly, writing on a casual farm blog hasn't been my highest priority especially too, given the sad state of affairs with the sheep dairy FDA mandate on new antibiotic test kits.....so my apologies to those who read my farm diary for lack of new info. That said, another excuse for me, haha, is that for the first time in Vermont winter, it seems,  it has actually been sunny for a few days in a row! So that means to get outside is of paramount importance. Hiking, taking in the chickadees' song, making sure we get our dose of Vitamin D from the sun!

Meals must quick and easy as well. Growing up in tropical climes, all things Asian are quick and much easier than one would think. Perhaps it is their inherent simple beauty on a plate- one would guess there's more to it than that! When I can't think of what to make for dinner, I grab some of our own ground pork, some won ton wrappers, veggies and some oil. I make this often for guests as well. Involving them as well as children is lots of fun too....Wait a minute. Yes, this can be healthy! I make both steamed and fried versions to round out the meal. Please note that these can obviously be made with just vegetables for vegetarians. As I have so many times before mentioned not being a 'measuring cook' unless I am baking here is the plan:

First I mix up a meat medley whatever suits my mood. This time it was 1 pound ground pork (could be ground turkey, ground chicken, chopped shrimp), grated fresh ginger, grated fresh garlic, chopped scallions, julienned carrots, minced button mushrooms and finely shredded napa cabbage. Add to it a tad of shoyu (soy sauce), dash of rice vinegar and you are ready to roll. Or 'push' as it were. I take one won ton wrapper and using said mixture load about a tablespoon on top 

then set it either on my palm or the counter and 'push' or smoosh it together. It's not technically correct with Asian cooks but I find it makes for just as tasty and fast! Certainly one wouldn't try this with a won ton to be fried. These, are only to be steamed. And as they sit in a steamer undisturbed, it works like a charm. 

As you fill the won ton wrappers, set aside on a clean plate after which you will refrigerate for approx 30 mins to set the dumplings. Below is a finished steamer!

For a fry-able version with the same internal ingredients, I use the won ton wrappers with a slightly different technique. Place won ton wrapper flat on your palm and fill with stuffing, then fold in half forming a triangle and using a bowl on the counter with plain water (yes that's how easy it is-no need for egg wash or egg whites) lightly dredge edges with water using index finger and fold. Voila! A pot sticker to rival any commercial version. 

And with local pasture raised and whey fed pork! I use any high heat type oil, canola, safflower or peanut. Use what you like depending on budget. Last night I used non-GMO canola oil. No need to deep fry, it can be accomplished in a skillet. Just fill to half the thickness of the won tons. Fry until golden and line up on a sheet pan to keep warm in a 200 degree oven to keep 'em comin'! Steam the others, make some Jasmine rice, and steamed Napa cabbage and you're all set for the night! My side dipping sauce is once again, improvised. I usually use fresh grated ginger, grated garlic, chopped scallion or two, dash red pepper flakes, shoyu, rice vinegar, dash mirin and splash sesame oil and top with a few sesame seeds on top. Mix this all together and you have a fantastic dipping sauce without preservatives or extra sodium. You can even use low sodium soy sauce or tamari if you like. It's all good! Just make it to taste. Ok so that's it folks. NOW, I gotta go tend to my barbecue pit-threw a couple slabs of ribs on for tonight's academy awards eve tv watching-I'm running behind what with kegging up the Belgian Ale I made last week. Too little time for hobbies!!!!!!!!! Spring's coming!

FDA Assault on Sheep Dairies

Well, not a direct assault, actually. I am not given to involve myself in controversial matters and would say I am innately apolitical. This latest move by the US government has me perplexed, if not aghast. And now as Sarah Palin must do, I am going rogue. Rogue in the sense that I will not stand by idly this time. Not with yet another range war, albeit 21st century style. Coming from 8 generations of ranching prevents me from sitting on the front porch and watching it all go by.

What's going on, you say? I write this in search of help. Normally I remain silent on all farm things that spell trouble. So here's a bit of background. A full 2 years ago, 2008, the FDA decided it desired to remove sheep milk from the PMO. The PMO is the Pasteurized Milk Ordinance, the bible by which all cheese makers must abide-basically a large unruly book with rules and regulations. All cheese makers, whether conventional or organic must test their own milk for antibiotic residues. Which, by the way, makes no sense as antibiotics are outlawed in use on certified organic dairy farms. At some point, and the details remain unclear to me, the Dept of Ag of NY along with a sheep dairy in New York state, funded a validation test for antibiotic testing kit approval. In addition, tests were conducted using frozen milk which is not standard protocol. Here's where it gets confusing. Only one company decided to participate and therefore donate their kits to be tested. The test was concluded that it, in fact, could test sheep milk for antibiotics and thus was approved by the FDA. The ONLY test approved in the entire USA! This kit costs approximately $4700 versus other previously legally used test kits priced at around $200-$250. Currently, cow and goat dairies have at their discretion, and budget, 5 choices in the marketplace.
Next confusion: The FDA conducted this testing without any transparency to the dairies in Vermont (of which now there are only 5-previously were 12). Not only did the kits become funded, tested and approved, but NOBODY notified sheep dairies until we received a letter dated early January 2010. The Dept of Ag in Vermont has had the knowledge, as stated in their own letter, since November 2009. Now here's the question: what else can the government do to force these small family farms out of business? With nary a profit margin, no time for vacations, and many rules and regulations, and now a $4700 test?! I will say for full disclosure that the Vermont Agency of Ag has offered to test each farm's milk for $8.00 a sample. The logistics are complicated and not feasible for some producers. Again, I can only speak for myself. I will be the sacrificial lamb on the spit. On our farm lambing has begun already and now we must decide if we continue to do this or just get squashed down one last time. You see, had there been transparency, we sheep dairies could have urged other antibiotic testing kit makers to participate in the study as it would have lead to later business for them. But we were not given the choice. Now it's mandatory and the choice faded into abyss.

A final note to ruminate on........European sheep cheese makers can use a different version of the test we used before all of this: Delvo test. But that one is NOT approved in this country. Wait?! You mean to tell me that millions of pounds of government subsidized cheeses can come in to this country using a "non-approved" test? Seems like a disconnect and possibly illegal to me. We would like another validation test to occur and allow all of us a level playing field. Perhaps the outcome might be choice versus monopoly. Did I mention that there are another 40 or so sheep dairies throughout the country which this new mandate affects? With over 30 international and national awards on this farm alone, it occurred to my husband and I, that these 5 Vermont farms draw tourism to the state (all of us are open to the public) and it would be a shame to lose more of Vermont's precious working landscape.

FACTOIDS:
We milk both cows and sheep. We are the only farm in Vermont to milk both species. Been on this farm in Chittenden county since 1991 without a single grant or government handout-we have pioneered our way and stuck it out through all the sheep dairy drama thrown at us through the years.
The other Vermont farms affected are: Bonnieview Farm, Peaked Mountain, Vermont Shepherd, Woodcock Farm.

If you would like to help in any way, offer suggestions, direction, please contact your US senators and congressman as this is a federal issue. Or please feel free to contact Rural Vermont to be kept abreast of developments in this situation:
Rural Vermont 802.223.7222
www.ruralvermont.org
info@ruralvermont.org

New Meat Products 2010

Announcing two new meat products for us in 2010!
First we have fennel scented Italian style lamb sausage along with lamb sausage with sage (informally known as breakfast sausage). Our butcher has packaged them in links-4 to a package. Most packages weigh a bit over 1 pound. They come frozen and vacuum sealed in cryovac. The Italian sausage can be used in any recipe one would use pork sausage: in pasta sauce, grilled, casseroles-same goes for the breakfast style sausage.
Below are two fun examples:

Italian lamb sausage sauteed with boneless chicken thighs,



sauteed mushrooms, onions and garlic-add to some spaghetti sauce-slow simmered for a couple hours like a mock cacciatore and then served with some spinach linguine.



I like the yin and yang of the linguine in the photo!




Second, we have thin sliced pork cutlets. Perfect for frying up breaded like schnitzel, stir fry or piccata. Or put into sandwiches as in Cuban style with pickles! Or maybe pork stroganoff. Here I decided to make pork in a schnitzel style. First when frying you want to use mise en place technique, or literally translated from the French, 'put in place', in order to have everything right in front of you and ready to go. Things can happen quickly and having everything prepared or chopped and available ensures a fool proof frying session.
Here are several vessels to hold my ingredients. This time I used a bowl, casserole dish and a pot. You can use anything you have. I began by drying the pork cutlets, pounding flatter in between two layers of wax paper


coating in flour, then beaten egg, then breadcrumbs.





When I get going on a roll, I must remind myself of the frying technique-one hand does the egg, the other hand does the breadcrumbs. What not to do is this: popsicle fingers! If using both hands in both bowls, the popsicle fingers can build and build until............


After coating all pieces of meat, I let the cutlets sit for a bit to firm up before frying.

Using canola oil at about 350 degrees in a skillet, then just fry 'em all up! Drain on towels. Salt and pepper to taste.

We gobbled them up with some steamed broccoli and lemon wedges.
We hope you enjoy these new meat products and we will have them at each farmers market we attend as well as special order at the farm by appointment.

Dashi Day

After battling the elements, as we say, I felt yet another cold coming on. So instead of making some winter type comfort food I needed something warming and healing. I went for something from my childhood. Hawaii has a large Japanese population with saimin (noodle) shops on every corner and Japanese food stores every where. While on delivery to City Market I bought some tofu, udon noodles and shoyu. Shoyu is the Japanese word for soy sauce. I already had some kombu (seaweed) in the pantry. Oh and I forgot......the most beautiful shiitake mushrooms in the produce department. Add to that, some Napa cabbage and it was a healing meal!
To make the dashi, you begin by soaking a sheet of the kombu in water with some dried shiitakes for about 15 mins. Then simmer for another 15 mins. Remove the kombu and shiitakes and replace with cooked and drained udon noodles with accoutrements such as: cubed tofu, chopped Napa cabbage, sliced shiitakes and scallions. A couple of shakes of some sesame and voila! Add salt to taste along with shoyu and hot sauce if you like it hot.

Storm of the Decade

It began snowing on Friday and lasted thru early Monday morning. Burlington Vermont even made the national news with its record breaking totals of 33 inches! Well, on Sat, here on our farm, it was up to 34 and counting. So what Burlington! Our farm is located 1200-1500 above sea level (depending on where you are on the farm) and we also get dumped on with lake effects totals routinely. I did manage to get some beautiful photos although digging out and shoveling and plowing for days on end didn't get erased from my mind as a result of said photos. Please excuse my tongue in cheek, but making cheese and having to dig loads and loads of snow while moving cheeses to the cave, is not my idea of how a decade should make its debut. Last year I recall making Butternut on January 1st, this year began with Paniolo.

To usher in the new year also came a farmer party/gathering we go to. Folks bring whatever dish they wish-since it was so cold and we needed to empty some freezers to allow for new meat we just got back from our butcher, I decided to bring a half-ham that I grilled on the Primo. It was a hoot, as every other family to show up brought a meat dish-this, from a normally very veggie-centric gathering! One farmer brought his own rabbit, and the hosts cooked up a lovely coq au vin-except with a twist. He made coq a la biere. Slow cooked rooster with beer. It was a carnivore's delight for the night!

Willow Hill Farm on Martha Stewart

Big News! We were so lucky to be featured in the November 2009 issue of Martha Stewart Living Magazine as well as being invited to the Martha Stewart live show. The magazine was filled with beautiful photos taken by Christopher Baker. What a great bunch of fun folks who came to interview us and spend time on our farm.......Unfortunately, for me, I had to process our milk into cheese the day the show was being filmed-and so could not attend. I was the only one in the group of cheese makers who could not attend. In attendance were Blue Ledge Farm, Consider Bardwell, Jasper Hill and Thistle Hill. Happily though, for me, I WAS able to catch the show when I went home for lunch as it's aired here at noon on NBC! What a great show. It began by discussing artisan cheese making in Vermont, continued with Liz Thorpe of Murray's Cheese designing a cheese plate, making goat cheese in the kitchen and then in the finale, Allison Hooper of Vermont Butter and Cheese Creamery. Allison has written a fabulous new book, In A Cheesemaker's Kitchen filled with oodles of recipes from her relationships with chefs. And don't forget Liz Thorpe's new tale of her life in Cheese Chronicles. Riveting reading and hilarious adventures she had! You'll have to buy it and see. I'll never divulge..........

After its airing Martha Stewart's cheese show was uploaded in its entirety online. You'll need a high speed internet connection. Check it out!

Or cut and paste the line below into your browser:

http://www.marthastewart.com/show/the-martha-stewart-show/the-cheese-show

Vaquero Blue Review on Slashfood

Click here to read a review by Slashfood on our new award-winning Vaquero Blue cheese.

Vermont Fall Means Lamb

I can’t remember the first time I grilled a piece of meat. I must have been in college when the allure of cooking over open flame drew me to buy a tiny Hibachi that sits on the ground. From those early beginnings with charcoal briquets, I moved on to covet the ultimate ‘gas grill’. Years later when I found an abandoned charcoal grill in my garage, I decided to give it a go. I went out to purchase some charcoal, but things had changed since those days in college. There were no longer just briquets, I discovered an array of hardwood charcoal, also known as ‘lump.’ After experimenting with it a bit, I was a convert! I became obsessed with low-n-slow barbecue as well as grilling. Grilling everything from fruit to vegetables, meats, even pizza, it has become my daily method of cooking- spring, summer, fall and even winter.

We got our first official frost here on the farm the other day, and then the very next day, it snowed! Times like this require lamb on the grill, I say. I went in search of a boneless leg of lamb in one of our farm freezers. And there, beneath the pork was a perfect sized leg that just might serve two, I thought. With more light snow predicted- this hill farm is at an elevation- full bodied herbal flavors summon me. A classic, Mediterranean/Greek lamb fits the bill. Redolent of garlic, olive oil and rosemary, its simplicity is what makes this one a gem. This recipe can be sized up to serve more by using a larger leg of lamb. Instructions for both charcoal/gas grills follow.

Boneless Grilled Leg of Lamb
Serves 2-4
Prep time 30-45 mins

Ingredients:
1 Boneless Leg of Lamb (2 ½ -3 lbs)
3 cloves garlic, grated
¼ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Lemon zest of 2 medium lemons
Lemon juice of 2 medium lemons
Sea salt to taste
Fresh ground black pepper to taste
4, four-inch long sprigs fresh rosemary, chopped

Begin by firing up a charcoal grill with coals placed only on one side of the grill. For gas grills, turn on the gas to all but one of the burners (medium/high heat). Peel the garlic, and then grate it by using a hand held grater or rasp. I find this often quicker than mincing or chopping. Add this to a medium sized bowl. Zest the lemons and squeeze out the juice into the bowl along with the olive oil, salt, pepper and chopped rosemary. Stir all this together and then using your hands coat the entire leg of lamb on both sides with the marinade/mixture. At this point you can reserve this for about an hour to marinate, or grill it right away.




Grill should be approximately 350ºF.

Place the leg of lamb on the grill (laying flat) directly over the flame to sear for about 2-3 minutes on each side. Then move the lamb over to indirect heat. For the charcoal grill, move to the side without coals. For the gas grill, move meat above the burner which is not turned on. Using an instant-read meat thermometer, cook until meat reaches 145ºF for medium-rare. This should take about 25 mins, but make sure to rely on a thermometer, as every grill is different. Take the meat off of the grill and place on a clean sheet and cover loosely with foil to rest for about 10 minutes. It will continue to cook a bit more and the internal juices will come together. Slice on an angle and dig in! Pairs well with Pinot Noir or a fruity Cabernet.


Click here to see Free Press article from my 3rd localvore contribution. Thanks Free Press!