Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Cheese. The Dirty Truth.......


Cheese makers. Nothing more than glorified dishwashers, I say! That's what we are. Most people think we lead glamorous lives, going to competitions and coming home with ribbons in hand. Or attending fancy food shows. The dirty truth is? All we do is clean! As farmstead cheese makers, by definition, the milk comes from the farm's own supply of milk from animals raised right on-site. As well by definition, this means dirt, mud and poop. Yes the evil poop word. As such the farmstead cheese maker must be a dirt vigilante and clean, clean, clean. When we arrive at the cheese room each morning, we begin by filling sinks. Lots of them. Sometimes, 5. With what? Chlorine detergent, acid rinses and then sanitizers.

Now what? Well, the forms that hold the curds must be washed, rinsed and sanitized. So must the tables that they drain on, and the floors too. All the while, simultaneously, keeping the curing rooms just as clean and the 'proper' molds growing in there. For in each curing room there are numerous molds that want to grow on every cheese in sight. And certain cheeses require particular surface molds, or bacteria for their proper development.

This week while awaiting milk to heat to its required temperature, we spent about 5 hours cleaning things before we even made the cheese! It's a very steamy, wet environment, a cheese making operation, so cleaning is top priority and arduous as well. And did I mention it must be done every day? Glorified dish washers we are, I say!

Friday, June 20, 2008

Grassfed Lamb Shares


It has become quite chic to elucidate on all things local, please forgive the digression, but the above photo is our grassfed lamb burgers with homemade tzatziki and River Berry Farm lettuce with our own winter-stored fabulous baking potatoes.

We like to call our lamb, Basque Style. Basque style lamb is similar to the lamb produced in the mountainous Basque region of Spain. They are raised on pasture and harvested smaller than American lamb (which is feedlot finished similar to beef). It is therefore more lean than standard American lamb. Grazing our diverse pastures contributes to lamb that is delicate, tender and full of varietal flavors.

Our lambs are completely pasture-raised. They are free ranging and are never confined. Moving to new pastures each day provides optimum nutrition and flavor. They forage for grasses, legumes and even wild herbs like thyme and dandelion!

They nurse their mothers’ own rich milk and are supplemented with whey (a bonus from our cheesemaking process) and natural minerals. The result? Tender, lean and delicate due to the diverse diet they eat. We do not use any antibiotics, hormones or genetically engineered products.

One has to ask, how long can the feedlot-raised meats paradigm last? Given the price of fuel and the cost of raising grains in the midwest, then shipping it to areas far away. Well, I won't go into a diatribe on animal welfare, carbon footprints and the untold LACK of health benefits of grain fed meats. I will leave that to better writers and more comprehensive science-based sites on the internet like Eatwild, NY Times writer Jo Robinson's site dedicated to grassfed meats and dairy products and their health benefits. What a wealth of knowledge on her site!

Back to our lamb. Called “Among the best spring lamb...” by Williams-Sonoma TASTE magazine (2000), it is truly of the land and reflects our own terroir in the foot hills of the Green Mountains of Vermont.
So please join us at farmers market to try some, or by special appointment here at the farm for purchase. We offer both meat cuts and whole lamb shares. Yes, it sounds contradictory. Perhaps gone are the days when folks referred to 'freezer lamb'..........now everything is called a share-blame that on CSA's. Ha! I'll take it.

Farmers markets heat wave


Wow! We are sure having the oddest season I can recall. First a mini-summer in April wherein everybody in the neighborhood opened their pools (which doesn't usually occur until June here in Northern Vermont), and then another heat wave in early June and now in late June days and days of rain-enough so, I shall build an ark. Wondering if farmers near here are suffering as there has been virtually no sun for too long. But I will say where there is failure, there is always success. After all, I am one who, like it or not, always sees the proverbial glass as half full, not half empty. If not I could never be in farming. Hope springs eternal and in Vermont spring is short, so you better be hopeful. Tongue in cheek. Anyway the most incredible and gorgeous tender greens are coming our way with veggies shares and by the looks of it, most other farmers are having the same bumper crop. What comes with lots of rain is greens and lettuces that absolutely love rain. So who cares if the peppers are drowning and the eggplants may never make their own eggs, we'll have sumptuous salads everlasting!

At farmers market though it is truly challenging to keep cheeses and sheep yogurt cool. The lamb we bring to market is frozen and is in large coolers stocked full of ice packs. Luckily I learned long ago that a frozen solid cut of meat tends to keep its brethren frozen too. Of course, that's if one doesn't open the cooler lid too often-like mom always said "stop opening the fridge so many times!" Well, this is one day I wish I had a fridge to open at the market. As for lamb, we do still have lamb shares available.

Sunday, June 8, 2008

Pork. It's What's for Dinner.

To say that "pork fat rules" is an understatement by Emeril Lagasse. I love pork. I love it alone and combined with other meats. It has a succulent, slightly salty, wonderful mouthfeel, the fat, that is.
We raise lamb and when I make lamb meatballs for spaghetti in red sauce, I enjoy the pure lamb meat, meatballs, but I cherish the meatballs with a little ground pork added. Of course I add a tad of our own milk to the mix too!

Our lamb, similar to Basque style lamb, is a little leaner than standard American lamb, so adding a small amount of ground pork helps add moisture and tenderness to the meatballs. Anyway, back to pork. It's so darn hot here in Northern Vermont right now that I figured, "if you can't beat 'em, join 'em.".............hence, the desire in the HHH (Hazy Hot and Humid temps) to barbecue some pork in true Southern style and enjoy this lazy day of summer. Wait! What? Lazy day? No whey! We made sheep yogurt today, Sunday. So another 9 hours in heat.......... This means that on a 90 degree day in Vermont, we were relaxingly donned in our rubber gloves and rubber aprons in an 85 degree room at about 90 percent humidity. Steamy is more like it!

Back to pork. I adore barbeque. I also relish grilling. What's the difference? **See notes below........I started out with the proverbial Hibachi on the ground in college. Then graduated to a gas Weber grill. Then inherited a Weber bubble charcoal grill when my mother moved away. I started out of curiosity to cook foods on the charcoal Weber. I never went back. Relegated the old gas Weber to the back of the garage and it's never seen the light of day, since. I would post a picture, but it might be sacrilege for some, so I'll refrain.

Consequently after grilling on the charcoal Weber for 3 years I noticed an ad in Fine Cooking Magazine for a Big Green Egg. This is a ceramic 'cooker', so it's called. But don't let that fool you. It excels in grilling, smoking and roasting. There are other brands of this Kamado type cooker on the market. I ended up in my obsessive hunt for one buying a Primo brand ceramic cooker (grill/smoker). These cookers can do direct cooking, indirect cooking, and smoking-even high heat cooking for a grilled pizza. They use charcoal, like the Weber bubble, however, the hardwood kind. This is lump charcoal, and will give your food an indescribable flavor. I know no one who has made the switch that goes back to briquets or gas. Yikes! I sound like I am pitching. Back to pork.

I 'cook out' as they say almost 365 days a year, here, in Vermont. I make lamb, pork, beef, fish and pizzas on the Primo. When it's storming, like a N'oreaster(whipping winds, below zero temps etc), then I make something else inside the house.

Here is the St Louis Style ribs with the fell (that thin skin next to the bones, sort of blueish, that needs to be removed prior to barbecuing-just pull a small amount with a knife, and using a paper towel pull the whole thing off in one fell swoop)...........pulled off with a paper towel, and rubbed with Dizzy Pig dry rub.



I like to make homemade dry rubs for meats, however,
I really appreciate being able to order the Dizzy Pig dry rubs online if I need to, in a pinch. Another favorite bbq product of mine is the Billy Bar. This tool, is exceptional at cleaning any kind of grates on any grill/smoker. Be it gas or charcoal. It is as good as sliced bread! This tool, is a small rod-like shape on a handle. Here, the bar cleans the grates.



Notice the V-shape of the bar. It gets in the grates and around to clean the gunk and will work on any type of grill, gas or charcoal. It has a stay-cool handle and can be wiped off with a paper towel. It beats those brass brushes that never last.


Barbeque vs. grilling:
Barbeque is anything that is slow cooked, low & slow at about 250-300F. Grilling, on the other hand, is high heat, or not, direct or indirect cooking on a grill. Barbeque, for me, is pork ribs, beef brisket, spatchcocked chicken, slow roasted lamb and/or game meats.